Banshee building resource

[daryl_wilkinson]

I HAVE CHANGED THESE FIT-OUT LISTS SEE BELOW:

As the main site is not accepting uploads at the moment I thought I would start this thread to provide a resource point for Banshee owners ( and anyone else for that matter).

Post helpful images or design files here that could be useful.

Below are a few pdf files that will give a guide to fittings lists, rigging systems and sail dimensions. They are not definitive but should put people in the right ball park. But they are what I am using.*

* may be subject to change.

Hope some of this helps.

[daryl_wilkinson]

Plans*, Mast and Sail plan measurements.

*some of these measurements have been slightly altered on my boat.

[daryl_wilkinson]

Proposed 'T' foil adjustment system. I'm still thinking about this one...

[roland_trim]

The diagnosis from the T-foil that erupted on the back of Slippy at Corus was as follows below. We were traveling very nicely at mach3 with both helm, crew and most of the boat's weight sitting on the foil.

Failure 1 - Pin bent above top gudgeon (tiller is not broken so this must have gone first in the direction of the blade)
Failure 2 - Foil went to very negative - bottom gudgeon went pop
Failure 3 - Foil became sea anchor - then separated from blade

Design pointer - The fore aft forces at the top of the rudder are lower than at the bottom. With a lowish drag asymmetric section, at speed, the drag was large enough to bend the pin -  there was almost inch between the tilt controls and the top of the gudgeon. Therefore I would strongly recommend that any fore-aft control is either grounded on the transom/gantry (i.e not loading the pin) or pushed flush with the top of the top gudgeon.

Comments on drawing.
The mechanism drawn moves the rudder by shortening the distance between the end of the end of the tiller and the top of the rudder pin.
Some of the mechanical advantage from blocks on the tiller is wasted by having to overcome the loading on the tiller in the opposite direction from the control line i.e. the pulley below the arrow for "Custom Plate" is attached to the tiller, attaching this block to the gantry  would remove this loss.
Mounting the "custom plate" and pulleys under the tiller would remove the bending problem on the pin as described above.

[daryl_wilkinson]

I see what you are saying about putting the 'custom plate' underneath the tiller arm, good point, thanx. And also the return blocks. But they are right devils to keep on the rudder pin center line if I put them on the gantry. I'll have to keep thinking about this one.

[Phil Alderson]

Those are excellent drawings, and help to clearly illustrate how to rig a boat, I will get them onto the main site soon.

For the T-foil, I think you are making life difficult for yourself. You have the pintle adjustment on the stock which gives you the changes in helm feel as you rake the rudder and by routing the purchase from the stock to the boat you have added complexity.

Just put the pintle adjustment on the back of the boat with the rope lead and blocks on the boat, there is no change in helm feel and the setup is very simple just a 6:1 or 8:1 required.

[daryl_wilkinson]

Thanks Phil, and you are right about the 'T' foil adjustment system. Unfortunately I am working backwards out of a hole on this one as I had specified a rocking pintel design and was convinced to go with a worm drive and built my stock accordingly, which means I haven't got any tolerance to fit what you are suggesting.

I think I am going to go back to a worm drive but possibly disconnect it from the tiller extensions and use a rope system to adjust it. That way it should be faster to use. Like a mighty screw system. What do you think?

[roland_trim]

We mounted a cleat on the tiller, next to the pin and adjusted it form there. The string from the single cleat then Y-ed out to each wing. Worked a treat with a 4:1 advantage and was easy to adjust in the on-off sense. The next foil will have the same mechanism with an additional twisty grip for fine movements (or putting a mite more foil on down wind).

If asked nicely Strawberry might post some pictures of it ?

I had a similar constraint, the crew and owner demanded that any T-foil additions had to be entirely fitted without altering the boat - so the normal rudder could go straight back on.

[daryl_wilkinson]

Please, Please Stu post some pic's. xxxx







Is that nice enough? 

[Phil Alderson]

If you can't modify the boat, then you are stuck with rotating the stock

I think if you are going to use a worm drive then you are best using it with the twist grip tillers, putting rope onto that system would be tricky.

if you 100% want the rope adjustment then I would use a tube for the custom plate, with a hole at the bottom and small slot at the top, it will locate better.
Then dead end the string on the tiller, a single block on the "custom plate" fwd to block on the tiller. The line is then split into a loop, one side of the loop down each side of the tiller to one block each side at the top of the stock, then down to one block each side at the bottom of the stock close to the pintle. You then put a floating block into the loop which is attached to the rest of your purchase.

The loop and floating block mean that there is no change in the length of the line as you turn the rudder.

Born Slippy's description sounds good too

[Tim Noyce]

I have a more extreme version of Rolands system on Badgers at the moment. Only boat modifications required were a few turning blocks and cleats as all the actual moving bits are in the stock, which is the same as the twist grip stock (the gear box fell out and sank at Bala!) I will try and get some photos of mine as it seems to work quite well. I need to refine the bungy return system as at the moment it is just a shock cord still with the hooks attached!

[Stuberry]

Here you go Jack... Seeing as you asked so nicely.

[ghislain_devouthon]

Just put the pintle adjustment on the back of the boat with the rope lead and blocks on the boat, there is no change in helm feel and the setup is very simple just a 6:1 or 8:1 required.

I think it is the only piece of aqua that Gilles was able to recover after the disaster. 

[daryl_wilkinson]

Being a slow coach does have it benefits! 15% Vat and 20% off from 'www.sailboats.co.uk' on fittings! Thats the best deal I could find. Worth a look if you are in the market. Here's my lists...

BTW the prices on these aren't with the different VAT or discount.

And I ended up at sailboats because P&B were so useless.

[Tim Noyce]

No wonder you've been a slow coach Daryl, you've been spending your days pissing about drawing diagrams rather than boat building!!