Madge Repairs

[pratn0]

http://youtu.be/7Stz18fehjg

[roland_trim]

Nice  :-)

[pratn0]

HI Guys.


Need some help.  Can someone point me where to get some foam to build out the sides of my new snout and to replace the foredeck that was cut away to add the tube.   Need to find somewhere near Portsmouth (south coast) i can get hold of this during this week.

Please also suggest a thickness and a brand as i'm clewless on this foam stuff..

I have a long list of things to build before the boat is sailable,  this is the largest bit at the moment.

thanks for your help.

[tim_unerman]

You could try marineware (www.marineware.com/) in Southampton, I think they stock Corecell, not sure exact grade but around 80 kg / cubic metre. I would go for around 10 mm thick, you may get away with less but you only save a very small amount of weight for a big reduction in stiffness.

Hope this is helpful

Tim

[Will_Lee]

Sounds like the amount you need is blaggable.

Foam has a thickness (5mm, 8mm or 10mm usually) - this is probably 8mm.
Foam has a density (60kg/m3, 80, 100, 200, 250) - this is probably 80.
Foam has a material (polyurethane or polystyrene or others) - probably PU.
Foam has a make (airex/herex is one. Divinycel is another). This doesn't matter too much.

If you know the material (=PU), you can may be guess the make. If you know the make you may be able to get the density from the colour.

The following may be wrong, but here is my guess:

It is 8mm thick. The foam feels like stale bread when you crush some between you fingers. If green it is 80. If brown 60 kg/m30. I think this is for divinycel, but I could be wrong.

We have a box of foam you can rummage through in London and take what you need. Noycey is nearer to you.

[Tim Noyce]

I have been helping Nick a bit so far but sadly I am not in the foam business myself (I should have blagged foam offcuts when I left the boat builders but didn't really think about it at the time!) We don't really need a huge amount for the snout as you say, but not sure who would have any nearby.

Next time I am in London I may well pop round and have a rummage in the box though as I expect there are some other bits and bobs which could be done with with offcuts (transom extension for example).

[roland_trim]

Same true if pasing by Bristol. Nick sorry I should have made you detour form Thornbury.

[phil_kirk]

The simplest way is to measure were you have cut the deck back.  I recall from when we repalced the rotten wooden pads with foam the aft end of the deck was thicker than the 8mm off cuts that we used so it could be 10mm. 

I reccomend using the same thickness to continue the deck as this will avoid voids or kinks in the fibres where you transition from thicker to thinner foam. There is little weight penalty.  I can't remember the colour but don't think it was green.  The Airex C70 foam is green for 80kg/m^3.  That's what we used to build E-Numbers.  The high density 200kg/m^3 airex is a light brown and useful for foils.

Trident foams in the penines are now the suppliers of Airex.  Imag in Dursley sold up to them so I can't go and collect locally.

[pratn0]

Hi guys.

At the moment the big focus is to get sailing for the nationals.  With that I may not be complete 97 rules due to what sails I have or I can get me hands on.


With that in mined the only sail I'm still missing as a kite.  If anyone has a kite no matter the size or the state(will repair if needed).  And is willing to part with it for a small fee please let me know.

Thank you for every bodies help in getting this boat completed.

N

[phil_kirk]

I have two old kites in my garage.  I have never hoisted them and don't know what their shape is like or what size.  I think one needs a some small repairs.  I can do a non colour matched repair and post to you if you wish. 

I can measure the luff, leach and foot for you if that helps.

Not bothered about cost assuming that postage is reasoanble.

[pratn0]

HI Guys.

I'm wanting to do a work party this weekend on Saturday.  If anyone would like to join me.

Focus will be getting the snout and foredeck clad and looking like normal. 

Hit me up with your keen to help. (which is much need at this point).

Thanks.

Nick

[pratn0]

So Jib track molding is pretty much finished.

working on the rudder stock next. 

What are peoples thoughts on attaching the tiller.  Angled or straight....  going straight will loose a bit of depth on the blade and being a narrow cord this could detrimental. 

Let me know your thoughts

[dave_ching]

Looking good.
Angled loos like the simplest solution with the gantry below the transom bar.
All depends on how it will work while sailing in the boat though.

[Will_Lee]

Hmmm. As Dave says, to keep the tiller against the gantry (important to not bend the pin and to keep the max of the blade in the water), it looks like you will need an angled tiller.

Sorry to be a bore, but with the tiller angled up like that the front end of the tiller will be v high, which means the outboard ends of the extentions may trail in the water. This is important and is the reason Antidote's twisty grip kit is below, rather than in the tiller. Makes a huge difference having the end of the leeward extension a couple of inches higher.

If that tiller is alu, then cut it at half the angle of the bend you want, rotate the distal part 180 degs and reattach. Suggest 4 little bits of alu, pref from a tube and pop rivet. You can epoxy and glass (not carbon!) it back together, but rough it up immediate before you do it, and once you have done it, rivet the alu to the glass cuff piece both sides of the join.

If carbon - much easier!

[pratn0]

I still need to make a tiller from scratch so open to suggestion on angles and shapes

will be  carbon.