I'm keeping Stanley

[roland_trim]

Have a version at home in CAD as well if it helps ;-)

[ross_burkin]

I think it would 

[ross_burkin]

Painting.

I'm sanding Stanley back to primer so could I just paint strait over the top?

For painting I plan on using pot paints. What do I buy?

I want to warm the paint up and plan on rollering it on then wet sanding to get the paint bump free and thin. Whats the best way to warm up the paint?

Instead of painting them could I paint them with epoxy? This would be waterproof and last much longer than paint. Would it be heavy?

[tim_unerman]

The main advantage  of using undercoat is that the colour comes out much better ie you only need 1 coat of under coat  or with 1 or 2 coats of top coat. If you use only top coat then you might have to put on 4-5 coat.
In terms of which paint to use you can either use single pack either blakes or international both will give quite a good finish and will last long enough. Two pack paint are much better but you do have to be much more careful with undercoating and mixing etc.
The third option is to use standard two pack car paint which needs to be sprayed but is avalible in more colours.

[Phil Alderson]

For the best painted finish the paint should go on with a roler and you then tip it off by brushing verry lightly with a paintbrush or foam brush

Remember the paint will still be slightly soft for a week after it goes on so be carefull if you sail or tow just after painting.

[Will_Lee]

You can use a brush or roller with car paint - This is how we did NB's not very good orange paint job.

W

[Stuart Hopson]

use a paint kettle and paint the paint on warm (makes it thinner), i use a foam wedge type brush for finnishing as they dont leave hairs everywhere!

[ross_burkin]

I've just had a look at the space frame in the front tank to find that one of the struts is a bit wobbly which is quite worrying. On closer inspection I discovered that the plates on either side of the main strut had cracked (as drawn in my dodgy paint diagram).

The top of the strut (where it meats the bow) is fine. How can i fix it? I'm thinking of just throwing a load of bog into it and then epoxying a plate on the outside for good measure.

[ross_burkin]

The paint is off the side decks and have now been epoxified, I'm waiting for the launch to go off and the space frame has been repaired. Tomorrow I'm fitting the pole tube, putting a patch in the foredeck, flipping the boat over and starting on the hull. My aim to be on the water this weekend is looking achievable, maybe with a T-foil!

[ross_burkin]

For anyone who is interested.

I got tired and bored of hand sanding so I went out and spent more money on more power tools. I got myself a random orbital sander which has made life a lot easier. I have filled the majority of dents and chips and tomorrow I will finish sanding the topsides and do some fairing then it's on with the paint. I think I'm going with all red with 1mm black progrip on the side decks and a white cockpit.
 
Backing plates. Will a fitting bolted though a backing plate which is mounted under a 3-4mm piece of ply break or will it be ok with a lot of force pulling it upwards?

[Will_Lee]

Step 1 is attaching the fitting to the deck.  A backing plate will do that, especially if epoxied in too.

Step 2 is ensuring the bit of deck won't come away - basically don't put it in the middle of a huge unreinforced area. Which fitting is it?

Exam 1 tomorrow - 3 hours - 10 am 1 pm.
Exam 2 (possibly the last in my life) Wednesday - 3 hours - 10am to 1pm.

[ross_burkin]

Right, I had enough of sanding so I went out and got some paint (Sentax exterior gloss). I rollered it on thinly then went over it very lightly to even it all, then let gravity do its thing and suck it all down in to one big mass of paint. It's a very thin even layer and I think I will only do one more or things will start getting heavy.

Adem (the crew) came round and had a look and was very pleased with it. But he rollered a couple of bits just when it was beginning to harden and dry so it has a few textured patches. I plan on going over the hole thing with very fine wet and dry tomorrow and adding layer  number 2.

Having to have to do it outside means that there is now little bits of leaves, flys and bits of stuff that float about in the air sticking themselves to it but the wet and dry should sort it out.

The dark patches is the bog from the original fairing process and the second layer of paint should cover it. It's also under a big tree so the leaves are casting shadows on it. If I have to paint a boat again I will be spraying it in white first and then the finished job will look much better. So far I'm happy!

[roland_trim]

Ross, she looks a treat.
No-one will ever take a picture closer than that when you are sailing - so you have achieved Cherub paint job perfection :-)
Time to stop painting an get him sailing.....

[ross_burkin]

Cheers Roland. I'm going to apply one more coat because the tin says I should and it will be a little more bash resistant. Thursday I will flipping him over and working like mad to get him finished. Things left to do after the second coat are:

Foredeck- Patch needs blending into the surrounding area and made watertight, then it's off with the paint and on with the sexy new red paint.

Cockpit- Needs touching up in a few places paint wise. Sand off excess paint. Put down strips of grip tape on the floor. Bog in the 'shelf' around the top of the centerboard case where it has cracked and come loose. Redo a couple of repairs in the wall of the side tanks. Seal the hatches. Fill holes left by the removed fittings. Stick on progrip to the side tanks. Sort out the bit the mainsheet ties to. Make a tiny kite sock to stop the kite flopping around the cockpit.

Foils- fix and fair! Then make a T-foil and stock.

Layout- I need to make fronting plates for sticking fittings onto the floor. Stick backing plates under a few places to bolt fittings to. Get on with fitting out!

Ropes- Some need replacing and cutting to the correct length. New mainsheet (I’m currently using two tied together). Spinnaker sheets are too short. New trapeze lines. Need more purchase in the kicker.

Sails- Batten pockets are wreck on both the jib and the main. I need one batten in the main. Bolt rope has started to some out of the main. There’s a hole in my spinnaker that needs repairing.

Spars- the boom needs to be fitted out properly.

Foot loops and make a decent trolley. I think that’s all of it. 

[ross_burkin]

Step 1 is attaching the fitting to the deck.  A backing plate will do that, especially if epoxied in too.

Step 2 is ensuring the bit of deck won't come away - basically don't put it in the middle of a huge unreinforced area. Which fitting is it?

Exam 1 tomorrow - 3 hours - 10 am 1 pm.
Exam 2 (possibly the last in my life) Wednesday - 3 hours - 10am to 1pm.

I'm planning on having the kicker and maybe the downhaul adjustable on both sides. Basically there is a block attached to the end of the line going through all the purchase, then a rope threaded through this block and on either side there is a turning block out to a cleat on the side deck. Paint diagram...