Madge Repairs

[Stuberry]

What happened to the sails Madge had?

[Will_Lee]

With prev owner with whom we have lost touch. They were promised with Madge to be delivered/collected on another occasion, but we have lost touch with him.

[pratn0]

Also asking that question.

I found those pic's on the site when updating the Madge page.

How much are you looking for the main .  would be something to start with before coming up rig program once the boats sailing.

Phil.  ANy parts would be use full right now.  This weekend i will have some time to pull out everything i have and work out whats going on..  Most of the deck hardware is also missing so it't going to be a long project getting her back on the water.

[JimC]

If (big if) my memory serves me correctly Madge Allsop was built in polyester/glass mainly by Simon Roberts with assistance from Will Perret. Davro, what do you remember?

[Neil C.]

I remember seeing Madge at a training weekend at Lee-on-Solent about Easter time in 1991. She was almost brand new with a very neat appearance and was painted all white. Will Perret had fitted her with a short-luff rig. Can't remember the construction I'm afraid but I do remember it was Simon R. who built her.

[dave_roe]

Yes Madge was built by Simon as a practice project before building Cheese Before Bedtime. It is foam, polyester and glass. Carbon space frame was laminated with epoxy though. Will Perrett gave Simon a financial contribution and nievely expected a finnished boat. Simon, understandably did the minimum possible. As a result some detailed finnishing just didn't happen. I recal Will moaning that Simon hadn't reinforced the edges of some side tank cut outs. I replied, that's because he thought you could do those bits, what do you expect for 500 quid? (Including materials!). Will always liked his boat numbers to end in "6". Hence Madge being 2646 even though it was built before Cheese - 2645.

[phil_kirk]

Action on saturday of the sticky weekend involved removing the rotten plywood inserts from the side decks and fore deck where fittings had been through bolted.  Curiously it appeared that all these pads had been inerted after the boat was built. In each case there was a local additional layer of glass or carbon on either the top or underside of the panel.  The final layer in some cases pealed off easily exposing the paint and some washers on the original layer.

Being short of foam and wanting to remove the main sheet turret we were able to re use some of the main sheet turret to fill in the side deck holes. Panels from the turret were bonded in place.   

The rest of the damage appeared to be due to the trolley or local launching dings.  The hull was otherwise very sound looking. 

Nick has the issue of how to snout the boat. Various methods were discussed. I'm sure nick will be interested in the previously most successful method of snouting a 90's boat.  The current bow structure is very similar to the orriginal DOG's structure. Moding to a full boat snout or centerline tube snout would require removing some of this bow structure.

[pratn0]

I have had a chat to Dave on Sunday and will be working on doing a similar mod to the first snout on pasta.

full snout with a slightly offset pole to miss the mast. 

I have got some drawing from dave to get this done.

I need some suggestion on type and amount of resin, bog and glass and carbon to get this done.

as well as source of this. if any one has any input.  One issue is i'm in a large warehouse we i can't use dry heat due to the fire sysytem in the rest of the building the picks up pre ignition in the air. (data centre)   so has to cold cure.

any suggestion will be very helpful.

[Phil Alderson]

For the minimum materials snout mod I would recommend something like the mod on Little Fluffy Clouds
If you don't need to change the current pole housing, this just adds support for the larger jib and adds minimal weight.

It does look agricultural, but is quick to do, and does not need much material so keeps the cost and weight down.

If you were going for a full snout then from a weight point of view it probably makes sense to remove quite a bit of the original bow structure as the strength for the old forestay point won't be needed in that location any more.

[roland_trim]

as well as source of this. if any one has any input.  One issue is i'm in a large warehouse we i can't use dry heat due to the fire sysytem in the rest of the building the picks up pre ignition in the air. (data centre)   so has to cold cure.

Does this rule out:
- A fan heater in a tent made from a sheet of plastic over the bow
- An electric blanket (bed type) placed around the bow and then a coupel of thick blankets over the top

The 8200 resin I have loads of needs a bit more of a post cure.

[dave_roe]

If a fan heater or even electric blanket aren't allowed you can use a hot water bottle under the insulation. It's fine for relatively small jobs.

[pratn0]

I think I can get away with the electric blanket idea. Sneaky sneaky.

Any thoughts on sourcing resin/ foam as I'm keen to get started on these small jobs.

[roland_trim]

You are welcome to dig around to offcuts box at ours. There is foam and bits removed from Born Slippy's tanks. There should be enough there, if not we will be generating plenty more over the next few weeks. Nearer to you it might pay  to spend some time and get some pre-laminated panels from Beans :-).

We also have resin that we can decant at "Wiz cost". The resin is 8200 and will just about set overnight in a cold garage. However it will not achieve full structural strength without a period a little warmer (the Matrix web site has the details).

[JimC]

If you were going for a full snout then from a weight point of view it probably makes sense to remove quite a bit of the original bow structure as the strength for the old forestay point won't be needed in that location any more.

Were I doing one I'd probably do much the same again as I did with Halo last time. Pics on here in the projects section. Although it does mean chopping a lot of structure it also has the advantage that you can move forward the aft support bulkhead for the pole, which gives you more space and thus less or no pole in the cockpit. I wouldn't do the deck beams the way thay are on those photos: I reworked all that a couple of years later when I put the mast stump in, but I can't quite remember what I did. I think I had the (new) central spine end up on a big carbon tube right across the foredeck which was both the tail of the kite chute and a big structural member, but I don't have any photos of that... Halo of course is not in the country to check, indeed may not exist at all any more...

[pratn0]

work continues.